geneIQ – Genetics and Diagnostics

We all know about personalized medicine based on the genetic or genomics screen of our DNA. Now it is time to brace yourself for personalized cosmetics also based on a DNA test. If you do not believe check out those two companies: Israeli based Cosmetics DNA (http://www.cosmetics-dna.com) and the USA based Dermagenetics (http://dermagenetics.com). Both of them provide personalized skin care after they test your DNA. Sounds a bit crazy, a bit Science Fiction? Or maybe it sounds really good to you, as you are trying to preserve your looks for as long as you can? Do you have enough information to make a decision if you should use them or not?

Let’s see what those companies really offer and how much can we trust the product personalization. It all starts with a DNA test offered either pay per test or free. Cosmetics DNA charges from 350 euros per 1 test to 770 euros for 4 tests. Dermagenetics performs tests of $300 value for free if you order $250 or more of products or you can pay for 2 DNA assessments $695. What are they testing for? All tests are based on single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) in a number of genes. The extent of the tested genes vary between the two companies.

Dermagenetics offers a much more limited screen, with only 6 genes related to skin aging (MMP1, SOD2, GPX1, EPHX, TNFa and NQO1) and 5 more for nutritional DNA assessment (VDR, MTHFR, PON-1, CYP11B2, APOB). In contrast, Cosmetics DNA offers a series of 4 tests:

1. Dermagenomics – Anti-aging & nutrigenomics, includes 68 SNPs across 54 genes
2. Health and Medical Care – 120 SNPs and pathogenic mutations across 92 genes, includes among others cardiovascular health markers, cancer, Alzheimer’s, autoimmune diseases, periodontitis, cluster headaches and pharmacogenomics
3. Nutrigenomics – Obesity management and nutrigenomics – 89 SNPs across 70 genes
4. Athletic Performance – 79 SNPs across 60 genes

The tests are claimed to be reliable, there is no mention of the technology used for the tests, which is a problem for those of us who are geneticists, we want to know how the tests are done so we can evaluate reliability and performance. But this aside, the tests are very basic and cover only a subset of genes that can affect your skin or metabolism. While nobody will argue with the importance of the genes selected, it is clear that the DNA profile obtained is incomplete. Our knowledge of what is the role of the genes in various health processes, including our skin is incomplete at best. Yes, you may have a mutation in one of the tested genes but then have a mutation in a modifying gene (not screened by a test used) that restores the normal phenotype. Until we have such understanding screening proposed by those companies has to be taken with a pinch of salt.

Moreover, a very important part of skin health is your diet and that does not seem to be addressed directly except for providing you with some dietary supplements. It seems that personalized cosmetics and supplements are not all these companies provide. In particular Cosmetics DNA is also advising you on healthy lifestyle, sports activities good and bad for you, supplements to take, how to control your weight, and they will also assess your risk factors for multifactorial diseases such as type 2 diabetes or cardiovascular complications. While all this sounds really great, there is no indication as to who does the risk assessment, or what are the basis of the diet recommendations. Do they have geneticists, genetic counsellors or dietitians to offer such advice? As a consumer I would be very worried about the quality of such advice when I have no information about people giving it to me. An interesting issue is also how does the FDA see this particular service. A genetic test is performed to optimize a product for a customer, it is not a treatment but yet the information is used in a similar way. Have those companies performed adequate testing of their products to substantiate the claims? Are their results better than other natural cosmetic companies?

A canadian blog site run by an unknown author (http://www.naturalskincareproducts.ca/) claims that the companies using nutragenic technologies (combination of DNA testing and natural supplements/vitamins) are creating products that are capable of slowing or reversing aging effects (a very bold statement). The key to the success is supposed to be the use of plant-based natural products not chemicals. Yet, those of you who made natural cosmetics at home, know that long term storage of products requires preservatives, some can be naturally-derived, but the most reliable are some chemical ones.

An issue that is also important is the better looking skin is not just the cosmetics you use, it is healthy diet and lifestyle. Can DNA test tell you what to eat? Not really, it can suggest that some foods are not good for you, but to fully assess such claims we need to expand the metabolomic testing and perform the tests that show how the food you eat is metabolized. You may have a change in one gene that is tested and other changes in untested genes that affect metabolism of sugars, coffee, fats, alcohol etc. Only by looking how well you actually metabolizing certain foods we can make an assessment of what your diet should be and what changes should  be made in it. Otherwise, it is only a guess. An informed one, but still only a guess.

So what is the bottom line of this discussion. In my opinion taking the claims of those companies too seriously would not be a good thing. What they can do well is create some cosmetics that are natural and supposedly uniquely formulated for you. The claim made by Dermagenetics, is that they improve skin in 70% of customers in 8 weeks. Not bad, but then again not stellar. There are choices out there on the market when it comes to cosmetics, and some more generic formulations might be just as good and save you some money. If you decide to use their DNA testing services and data interpretation, insist on knowing who provides this information back to you, is this person accredited to give such advice. Such information should be clearly provided by both companies and maybe when more customers ask it will find its way to their websites.